written by Ryn Pfeuffer

From Seattle’s hustle to Victoria’s graceful pace, the contrast is a welcome breath of fresh, salt-tinged air. This charming capital city on Vancouver Island, known as “The Garden City,” delivers old-world charm with a distinctly modern pulse. Getting there is half the fun: Hop aboard the Clipper Vacations ferry, with daily departures, and enjoy a scenic passage straight into Victoria’s storybook Inner Harbour.

Once you dock, everything shifts—your pace, perspective and even your palate. Start with a stroll along the waterfront. On a clear day, the Fairmont Empress shimmers like a palace from a children’s book. The Fairmont Gold suites offer sweeping harbor views and a lounge stocked with twenty-four-hour snacks. If you’re on a budget or just craving something funky, Hotel Zed, located just outside downtown, delivers a retro rainbow-hued vibe. Think neon flamingos, typewriters and a lobby equipped with rotary phones.

Victoria is where colonial history, First Nations heritage and contemporary cool come together. You’ll feel it as you head into Old Town, with its weathered brick buildings and timeworn beauty. Or as you paddle past waterfront buildings by kayak, the best way to take in the Inner Harbour’s breezy energy. Despite the floatplanes buzzing above and ferries gliding by, a guided paddle with Kelp Reef Adventures offers a peaceful perspective. Harbor seals laze on the docks, river otters twist through the water and, if you’re lucky, bald eagles soar overhead.

Back on land, hop on an e-bike and follow one of the region’s “flavor trails.” The Lochside Regional Trail, a flat and scenic 18-mile stretch running north toward Swartz Bay, winds past family-run farms, cideries and quirky roadside stands. Pick strawberries at Galey Farms or detour to Babe’s Honey Farm to try a fizzy Sparkling Bee Line, a kombucha-meets-mead-style drink made from fermented honey. Want to keep things closer to town? The Pedaler Cycling Tours & Rentals organizes a breezy Hoppy Hour tour that combines gentle cycling with tastings at Victoria’s top craft breweries. The floral-focused Pedal to the Petals ride, meanwhile, takes you through lush public and private gardens that earn the city its “Garden City” nickname.

Between these active adventures, carve out time for one of Victoria’s most historic neighborhoods. Make your way to Fisgard Street, the heart of Canada’s oldest Chinatown, and pass through the Gate of Harmonious Interest. It’s a portal to the past—and a most tasty present. At Don Mee, brass carts deliver traditional dim sum; the shrimp dumplings are a standout. Nearby, Wah Lai Yuen Bakery turns out sweet-and-savory cocktail buns. Loy Sing’s gleaming barbecue pork deserves a spot on your table (or eaten straight from the takeout box). (Fun fact: Loy Sing holds the title of the longest continually run Chinese business in North America. It has now been in operation for 136 years and counting.)

Wander over to Fan Tan Alley, Canada’s narrowest street, once home to gambling dens and opium parlors during the gold rush. Today, it’s lined with eclectic boutiques and a few unexpected gems, like the Dumpling Drop, a favorite for deep-fried dumplings filled with pork belly or lemongrass chicken. Next door, the Victoria Chinatown Museum provides powerful context, with exhibits that trace the hopes, struggles and contributions of early Chinese immigrants. Compact but impactful, it grounds your visit in history that’s easy to overlook but impossible to forget.

In a city where you can spot whales in the morning, pedal through farmland by afternoon and finish with dumplings in a nineteenth-century alleyway, the only thing you’ll want more of during a weekend in Victoria, B.C., is time.

VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA

EAT

Don Mee
www.donmee.com

Dumpling Drop
www.dumplingdrop.ca

Wah Lai Yuen Bakery + Restaurant
www.facebook.com/wlyvictoriabc

STAY

Fairmont Empress
www.fairmont.com/en/hotels/victoria/fairmont-empress.html

Hotel Zed
www.hotelzed.com/victoria

PLAY

Babe’s Honey Farm
www.babes-honey-farm.com

Galey Farms
www.galeyfarms.ca

Kelp Reef Adventures
www.kelpreef.com

Lochside Regional Trail
www.crd.ca/parks-recreation/find-park-or-trail/lochside-regional-trail

The Pedaler Cycling Tours & Rentals
www.thepedaler.ca

Victoria Chinatown Museum
www.victoriachinatownmuseum.com