Anacortes: The Hidden Gem of Fidalgo Island

A bustling coastal town with culinary delights to keep you from hopping the ferry

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

I have been to the San Juan Islands dozens of times, but I’ve spent only a handful of days in Anacortes. Situated on “the other San Juan Island,” Fidalgo, Anacortes is separated from mainland Skagit County farmland by the Swinomish Channel and from Whidbey Island by Deception Pass. Like most tourists, I used to skip downtown Anacortes, always turning left at Safeway to head straight to the ferry. After all, it is known as the gateway to the San Juan Islands.

When I did venture into town, it was usually out of necessity: grabbing a coffee before an early ferry or getting a quick bite before making the ninety-minute drive back home to South Seattle. Anacortes had never been a planned day trip or weekend getaway until last year when my partner and I decided to escape Seafair and spend a weekend there. Coincidentally, our impromptu trip aligned with the Anacortes Arts Festival (this year, it takes place August 2 to 4).

Though familiar with a few spots, we hadn’t truly soaked up the working harbor town vibe. Exploring this charming small town, surrounded by water on three sides, was so enjoyable that we returned on a whim a few weekends ago. I wondered why we had skipped over this former mill town, which boasts far less rainfall than Seattle (a definite plus during the drizzly winter months). While I had always assumed Anacortes was a town of boaters and retirees, I discovered there is much more to it. Whether you want to immerse yourself in forest and coastal walks or shop locally owned businesses and savor the local cuisine, Anacortes is a worthy coastal destination in its own right. Welcoming, laid-back and perfect for exploring at your own pace, it offers a refreshing and charming escape from the hustle and bustle. Here’s what to do:

Day 1

PLAN YOUR STAY • CRAB AU GRATIN • OCEAN VIEWS

If you arrive in town early, begin your trip with lunch at Dad’s Diner. Choose from their delicious mortadella hoagie or chicken asada quesadilla. Alternatively, head to Dad’s Diner Old School BBQ, a food truck just up the street with a small outdoor seating area. Follow the smell of burning wood to this spot where everything, including the bacon, is smoked and made from scratch.

After lunch, check in at Anacortes Inn. This hip, modern Pacific Northwest oasis is located on the main drag, Commercial Drive, about 1.5 miles from the heart of downtown. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with amenities like a midsized refrigerator, microwave and bathtub. Pet-friendly rooms are available toward the back of the property, adjacent to John Storvik Playground—a fun spot for kids and dogs. For a luxurious stay, consider the Majestic Inn & Spa in the heart of downtown. The Apothecary Spa offers an hour or two of pampering, and the rooftop lounge, with its fire pits and blankets, provides unbeatable views of the surrounding San Juans. The hotel is also dog-friendly.

Check out the modern and biophilic vibe at Anacortes Inn near downtown Anacortes.
Photo by Anacortes Inn

Make sure to dine at Adrift for a meal that feels like a warm hug. Whether you opt for breakfast tacos for brunch, one of their famous soups for lunch or a bowl of gooey Dungeness crab au gratin to kick off dinner, the food and service at Adrift never disappoint.

Try the amazing fish dishes at Adrift, such as the cioppino or Dungeness crab au gratin.
Photo by Adrift

Afterward, head one block south to the Brown Lantern. Open since 1933, this casual, convivial spot serves up a damn good burger along with a friendly atmosphere perfect for unwinding with a pint.

If there’s still daylight, make your way to Cap Sante Park. This bare rock outcrop offers a brilliant 360-degree view of Anacortes and the surrounding waters. You’ll see the beautiful Cap Sante Marina, the Guemes Channel and, on a clear day, Mount Baker. It’s a perfect spot to watch the sun go down.

Day 2

ARTS FESTIVAL • FARMERS MARKET • ANTIQUES

Start your morning with a stroll through Pelican Bay Books & Coffee House. Grab a freshly baked treat and a cup of Olympia Coffee Roasting Co. coffee. This cozy spot is the perfect launchpad for a day of exploration.

Next, head to the Anacortes Arts Festival, a vibrant event that draws more than 90,000 people. Give yourself a few hours to meander through the fine art show, enjoy concerts and watch working artists. With more than 250 vendors selling everything from sculptures and jewelry to clothing, paintings and garden art, there’s something for everyone. Prepare for some traffic as you navigate the bustling booths.

Don’t miss the annual Anacortes Arts Festival during your stay.
Photo by Anacortes Arts Festival

While at the festival, don’t miss the Anacortes Farmers Market, which coincides with the event. Open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays from May through October, as well as the second Saturday each month from January through April at the Depot, this market offers a delightful array of local produce, crafts and treats.

The Anacortes Farmers Market is a great way to connect with the local terroir.
Photo by Anacortes Farmers Market

As you wander the festival, take a break to pop into some locally owned shops. Alley Cat Antiques is a treasure trove of unusual finds, including neon signs, porcelain decor, old paintings and more. Watermark Book Company is another must-visit, showcasing the latest titles, a recommended reading list and fantastic merch like puzzles and art supplies—perfect for those lazy summer days.

The local bookstore, Watermark Book Co., is another way to commune with local people and authors.
Photo by Watermark Book Company

Head to Tin House, just across the street from Anacortes Inn, for dinner. Whether you opt for takeout or snag one of the few outdoor picnic tables, you’re in for a treat. Their Thai street food specialties, including ground shrimp donuts, deep-fried marinated pork belly and crab fried rice, are a delicious way to end your day.

Day 3

BAGELS • A SCENIC STROLL • SWEET TREATS

After checking out of your accommodations, head to Good Bagels for a hearty breakfast. This local gem, started by two brothers from New York who fell in love with Anacortes, offers freshly baked bagels made with local ingredients. You can’t go wrong with their San Juan bagel sandwich, loaded with ham, egg, tomato, onion and herb cream cheese. If you’re in the mood for something more substantial, try the weekend brunch at Sugar Mama Café. Their tropical paradise pancakes—three chocolate chip buttermilk pancakes topped with toasted coconut, fresh banana and homemade whipped cream—are the perfect indulgence.

The tropical paradise pancakes at Sugar Mama Café, topped with toasted coconut, a banana and homemade whipped cream.
Photo by Sugar Mama Café

Next, head to the Tommy Thompson Trail for a scenic hike. This flat, 3.3-mile one-way blacktop trail begins at the Port of Anacortes and ends at March Point near the Shell and Tesoro refineries. Enjoy stunning views of Mount Baker and Fidalgo Bay, and keep an eye out for the blue herons, especially at low tide. As you stroll across the abandoned railroad trestle, look for marine life—you might spot a sea lion curiously watching you from the water.

After your hike, treat yourself to something sweet at The Store, known for its fresh-baked muffins. People line up out the door on weekends for flavors like rhubarb crisp, crème brûlée and maple pecan crunch. It’s the perfect pit stop before you hit the road.

If you’re taking Highway 20 home, make a detour to the Lopez Island Creamery Factory Store for a handcrafted, small-batch scoop. Founded on Lopez Island in 1982, the creamery moved to the mainland to reduce its carbon footprint and expand operations, opening a new factory and storefront in Anacortes in early 2022. They’re open daily from 12 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Alternatively, if you take the longer route home via Whidbey Island, stop at Rosario Beach, part of Deception Pass State Park. Here, you’ll find tide pools, wide beaches adorned with driftwood, picnic areas nestled among old-growth trees and wildflower meadows, and a story pole carving of Kwuh-kwal-uhl-wut, the Maiden of Deception Pass. This legendary figure of the Samish, a Coast Salish Native American tribe, adds a touch of local history to your visit.

Next time, consider setting aside time for a whale-watching tour, an activity often enjoyed in the San Juan Islands. Outer Island Excursions has a convenient outpost in Anacortes, making it easy to embark on a marine adventure right from town.