A small San Juan Island with a big embrace of small farms and local food
written by Ryn Pfeuffer
Lopez Island, known as the “Friendly Isle,” is the perfect fall escape with its fiery autumn colors, quiet trails and welcoming community—don’t be surprised when people wave to you from their cars. Whether biking the island’s flat roads, exploring local farms or savoring local crab, clams, mussels or oysters, Lopez offers a laid-back charm that’s hard to resist. Here’s how to make the most of a fall weekend.
Day 1
COTTAGES + CAMPING • COCKTAILS • SUNSET HIKE
Start your day with a scenic, thirty-five-minute ferry ride from Anacortes to Lopez Island. Keep an eye out for whales, seabirds and other marine wildlife. Upon arrival, check in at Lopez Farm Cottages, just 2.6 miles from the ferry terminal. This charming, 29-acre organic farm—run by Mariko McKittrick and her husband, Jordy Hamilton (both relocated from Los Angeles in 2021)—features cozy, Scandinavian-style cottages. Enjoy private hot tubs (Cottage #1), pet-friendly accommodations (Cottage #5), gas fireplaces, luxe bathrobes, plush linens and a well-stocked kitchenette.
For a more rustic experience, glamp in one of Lopez Farm Cottages’ five wall tents with hammocks and Adirondack chairs or opt for a classic walk-in tent site. These sites share a camp building with hot showers, on-demand hot water, a large fireplace and plenty of picnic tables. There are also a few drive-in sites designed for pickup trucks and vans. And don’t forget to greet the resident felines, Nori and Kombu.
Keep in mind that cell service on Lopez Island is generally spotty, with the best coverage near Lopez Village, especially with T-Mobile. Lopez Farm Cottages offers free wifi, but why not use this island escape to disconnect and embrace nature instead?
Other camping options include Odlin County Park and Spencer Spit State Park. Odlin County Park offers thirty campsites with waterfront and forested options, a sandy beach and a boat launch. Campsite #6 is always in hot demand for its privacy and proximity to the beach. Spencer Spit State Park features thirty-seven campsites with views of Lopez Sound and Frost Island, picnic areas, hiking trails and beach access. The walk-in beach sites have the best views, especially numbers 44 through 50.
Ease into your evening with a cocktail or glass of wine at Ursa Minor. There are also some knockout nonalcoholic options. While dinner reservations are highly recommended, you might be able to grab a bar seat when the airy, sunlit space first opens. The restaurant hosts Polaris Pop-up on Monday nights with a more casual service style and comfort food fare.
After drinks, walk around the block to Setsunai for dinner on its intimate, heated patio. Renowned for its hyper-locally sourced ingredients, chef and founder Josh Ratza offers handmade ramen and udon noodles, rice bowls and the chef’s eight-course omakase tasting menu on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations are recommended.
Unwind after your first day on Lopez Island with a sunset at Iceberg Point. A scenic, 1.5-mile hike leads to this peaceful spot, where the sky lights up in pink, orange and purple. Along the way, watch for bald eagles, seals and grazing deer, and if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of migrating orcas or gray whales.
Day 2
BAKED GOODS • FARMS • ART WALK
Head into Lopez Village and jumpstart the day with a visit to Isabel’s Espresso, the go-to spot for a pick-me-up. Enjoy its popular snickerdoodle latte or a refreshing Italian soda in a warm, laid-back atmosphere with indoor and outdoor seating.
If you’re visiting between mid-May and mid-September, don’t miss the Saturday Farmers Market. Chat with local farmers and pick up fresh produce, artisan breads, meats, preserves, handmade gifts and more.
Next, stop by the Barn Owl Bakery farm stand (Thursday through Saturday mornings) for cookies, crackers and whole grains. Starting at 3:30 p.m., they serve fresh, hot bread. Don’t sleep on their sourdough butter crackers with rosemary, dulse and San Juan Island Sea Salt or the Mountain Bread, a Danish-style rye packed with seeds, honey, molasses, raisins, beer and yogurt.
Take a detour to Horse Drawn Farm off Port Stanley Road, where you’ll find organic, farm-to-table produce and top-quality lamb, pork and beef. This charming spot runs on an honor system—choose, weigh and pay by cash or check.
Also, be sure to visit Sunnyfield Farm for fresh goat milk products, including herbed chèvre, feta, goat milk yogurt and the must-try “Little Bloom” crottin. Owners Elizabeth and Andre Entermann occasionally offer impromptu tours for curious visitors, and shaded spots are available for cyclists to rest.
For a memorable meal, head to Blue Heron Bistro. Open daily for lunch and dinner, they serve house-made pastas, a kids’ menu and a tasty signature Lopez 75 cocktail made with elderflower syrup, gin and prosecco. Try the Dungeness crab melt on Barn Owl focaccia or grilled sockeye salmon with vodka dill cream sauce.
If you happen to be in town during the First Saturday Art Walk, meander local galleries featuring local art, live music and refreshments. Stop by Skarpari, where Chris and Krista Stovall craft beautiful knives, jewelry and art from eco-friendly materials, and Ship Supply, a boutique offering island-inspired fashion and accessories, some designed by local owners.
Wrap up your day with a stop at Shark Reef Sanctuary. Walk the nature trail to the island’s western edge, where you can explore tide pools and spot seabirds, seals and marine mammals.
Day 3
EXPLORE BY BIKE • TACOS
Kick-start your day at Lopez Grind, also known as The Grind, with a Simple Sip—a cold brew topped with dreamy French vanilla cold foam—while soaking in local art. Then, swing by Village Cycles for hybrid bike and kayak rentals, complete with a handy Day Trip Guide and bike maps. They even offer ferry terminal drop-off and pickup for a nominal fee. September and October are ideal for fewer crowds, but steer clear of Center and Mud Bay roads due to higher speeds and traffic.
For a super pretty ride, try the Fisherman Bay Loop. This 8.2-mile route is great for casual riders and serious cyclists alike. It offers an incredible water view backdrop as it nearly circles Fisherman Bay, ending at the Fisherman Bay Preserve.
Before heading to the ferry, treat yourself to a final stop at El Taco ’Bout It. Owned by Jennifer and Victor, originally from Zacatecas and Jamay, Jalisco, this local favorite has served delicious meals since 2016. Parked next to Isabel’s Espresso in the village, this taco truck serves authentic Mexican flavors with daily specials and locally sourced meats like lengua (beef tongue) and hígado (liver). Don’t miss their breakfast burritos on Sundays. (Open Friday through Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.)
LOPEZ ISLAND, WASHINGTON
EAT
Barn Owl Bakery
www.barnowlbakery.com
Blue Heron Bistro
www.blueheronbistrolopez.com
El Taco ’Bout It
www.eltacoboutit.com
Horse Drawn Farm
www.yelp.com/biz/horse-drawn-farm-lopez-island
Isabel’s Espresso
www.isabelsespresso.com
Setsunai
www.setsunainoodlebar.com
Sunnyfield Farm
www.sunnyfieldonlopez.com
Ursa Minor
www.ursaminorlopez.com
STAY
Lopez Farm Cottages
www.lopezfarmcottages.com
Odlin County Park
www.sanjuancountywa.gov/facilities/facility/details/Odlin-County-Park-5
Spencer Spit State Park
www.parks.wa.gov/find-parks/state-parks/spencer-spit-state-park
PLAY
Bike and kayak rentals
www.theedenwild.com/lopez-island-bike-rental
First Saturday Art Walks
www.visitsanjuans.com/eventdetail/72337/first-saturday-art-walks-on-lopez-island
Iceberg Point
www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/iceberg-point
Lopez Island Farmers Market
www.lopezislandfarmersmarket.com
Shark Reef Sanctuary
www.visitsanjuans.com/account/shark-reef-sanctuary
Ship Supply
www.shopshipsupply.com
Skarpari
www.skarpari.com
Village Cycles
www.villagecycles.net