A wild mushroom continues to delight local chefs and fungi fanatics

written by Corinne Whiting

Washington’s unique flora and topography make this state a prime spot for wild mushroom hunting. And morels—a type of mushroom with an earthy, nutty flavor and which varies greatly in size and appearance—are coveted among many Northwest chefs and outdoor enthusiasts. Only grown in the wild, they have a meaty texture that enhances dishes prepared by local cooks and savored by in-the-know diners.

Expert Travis Furlanic, who grew up on Whidbey Island and has explored many places between here and Santa Cruz, California, in search of fungi, has run Whidbey Wild Mushroom Tours for more than seven years (often throwing in pun-fueled fun along the way). He loves sharing his wealth of knowledge, such as the estimate that roughly eighty species of morels exist worldwide.

Furlanic was “born to be wild,” he said—always outdoors in the forest, up a tree or in the ocean. His mushroom infatuation began on a Whidbey forest walk at age 17. “I got to this low point on the trail where it dipped, and suddenly I was surrounded with so many vibrantly colored mushrooms. Red, purple and yellow mushrooms all around me!” he said. “From that spot in the woods, I immediately walked to the Langley library and picked up my very first field guide.” He’s been reading ever since.

Early on, he’d attend every event possible, from ecotours to fungus fairs, always toting along questions to be answered by the pros. Now considered a trusted source by many, Furlanic has been studying mycology for fifteen-plus years and has helped teach and identify mushrooms across many platforms and forum groups since 2016.

Chef Jeramy Moulder, who’s worked at Alderbrook Resort & Spa for more than a decade, is a fan of foraging wild mushrooms, too. He explained that morels, best found in early to late spring when rain is heavy, like to grow near creek beds or swamps, under cottonwood, alder and elm trees. “These mushrooms are particularly fond of areas where a fire had burned the previous season,” he said. “Besides morels and chanterelles, you can find oyster, lobster, cauliflower, yellowfoot and porcini mushrooms as well as truffles from late spring to early winter.”

Having grown up near Washington’s coast in Aberdeen, Moulder dreamed of becoming a chef from a young age. As a child, he learned to bake desserts and prep dinners alongside his father, who also inspired his interest in foraging. This passion was further piqued by friend and mentor Adam Hagen once he started cooking at Alderbrook.

Moulder said Western Washington proves a unique area for foraging, since there are many distinctive and tasty culinary treats found here at different times of the year. Alderbrook, he added, is nestled in a “foragers’ dream area.”

“Because the resort sits right on Hood Canal with trails that extend for miles back into an old-growth Douglas fir stand, there are many opportunities for foraging delicacies, some of which can only be found in the Pacific Northwest,” he said.

Alderbrook’s “Trail to Table” program allows guests to be led by chefs along the property’s many old-growth trails. “The chef actively forages fresh ingredients along the way and explains all the edible items that can be found in the woods,” he said. “Afterwards, the group walks back down to the chef’s garden and takes part in a cooking demonstration based on what items have been foraged along with other seasonal items.”

Moulder instructs up-and-coming foragers to keep an eye on the weather. “After the sun has had a chance to thaw the ground and all the green plants are growing, watch for the rain to come,” he said. “Wait one or two weeks after a good, hard rain to start looking for forageables.”

Furlanic mentioned, however, that many mushroom species do fruit outside of their typical season, so those interested shouldn’t necessarily sit around and wait for one particular season.

When foraging for any mushrooms, you must be 100 percent certain you’re harvesting the edible mushrooms you’re seeking. “Make sure to check the identity of the mushroom against a foragers guide,” Moulder said. “For the safest result, check the spore print of the mushroom as well. There are many toxic mushroom varieties and look-alike mushrooms out there, so it is important to be mindful and aware of what you are consuming.”

When it comes to educating oneself, Furlanic said, “do it all. Read every book you can, go to every event you can, join a mycological society, come on a tour with me, get on every online platform you can such as Facebook groups and iNaturalist. Just turn over every metaphorical rock you can think of.”

He also advised starting with easy options (morels, chanterelles, hedgehogs, porcini, lobster) as you gain confidence and familiarize yourself with each major genus. Important note: Always cook morels thoroughly, as they have a toxin that needs to be cooked out. “Undercooking or eating raw morels will likely cause gastrointestinal distress,” Furlanic warned.

Moulder shared other foraging suggestions like making sure to wear thick boots, packing a light backpack stocked with essentials, checking your phone’s compass before heading into the woods and paying attention to what time the sun will set. For beginners without a proper foraging knife, a pocket knife and paintbrush (for cleaning delicate wild mushrooms) work great. Place freshly foraged mushrooms in a basket or paper bag for the best results. “The most important thing about foraging is that you stay safe and have a good time,” Moulder said.

In the kitchen, Furlanic chops morels horizontally, making cogwheel-like slices that can be dry sautéed and added to dishes. “I like to cook all of my mushrooms separately and then add them afterwards to things like pasta or soup,” he said. “I find cooking them along with other things can mask their flavor.”

Moulder enjoys making a mushroom gratin with morels, or he substitutes them for regular mushrooms in dishes like pizza or meatloaf. “Morels are a special ingredient that only comes around for a short time each year, so it’s fun to utilize them every way you can while they are fresh,” he said. “Morels can also be dried and stored for later use, and make a great ingredient for a prepared soup mix.”

According to Furlanic, the best identifiers and mycologists he knows are self-taught. “Gaining knowledge into mushrooms simply takes an eagerness to learn and an appetite to satisfy one’s curiosities, and I simply had a big appetite,” he said.

“What I love most about mushrooms is their unpredictability and spontaneity,” Furlanic said. “Most of the time I go into the forest, I really don’t know what I’m going to find.” Foragers can walk into the same forest for years and make new finds each time.

“With so many species to learn and acquaint yourself with, there’s really no end to the learning, and I love that!” Furlanic said. “It is said that mushrooms in North America outnumber plants six to one, but I’d wager more. As a collective, we know quite a lot about mushrooms, but I think there’s even more we don’t know, and to me that’s exciting.”

To learn more about Whidbey Wild Mushroom Tours or book a guided foraging outing, visit www.whidbeymushroomtours.com