written by Lauren Kramer | photography by DeLille Cellars
The Restaurant at DeLille Cellars opened in 2021 in Woodinville, and judging by the turnout on a chilly Saturday night in February, this eatery has nailed the formula for success. The 160-seat restaurant was bustling with well-heeled diners, but despite being at 85 percent capacity, service was personable, food arrived without a prolonged delay and tableside conversations were easily audible.
We sipped on DeLille’s Chaleur Blanc, which, our server confided, was one of Michelle Obama’s favorite wines, as we marveled at the wine list. The selection of more than 150 wines is mind boggling, especially considering the quality of DeLille’s own exceptional portfolio. We stuck with DeLille as others ordered flights that contrasted flavors from different regions.
The food at DeLille Cellars’ restaurant changes often according to season and availability with just a few staples like mushroom toast and New York steak frites that endure year-round. One bite of the mushroom toast and it’s clear why that one’s a staple! The creamy richness of the cremini, shiitake and brown beech mushrooms is accentuated by a layer of rich mascarpone and beautifully contrasted with the crunch of house-made, whole-grain bread. Add a dusting of peppery arugula, and you have an unforgettable appetizer in your hands. We ordered delicata squash fries prepared tempura-style, a fun variation on French fries and a good accompaniment to the light, fresh Washington salad, with bing cherries, candied pecans and organic greens.
The two-page menu had lots of safe options like steelhead trout (my choice), pasta and pan-seared chicken breast. For diners wanting to explore foods a tad less traditional, choices included fried rabbit cassoulet and torched Spanish octopus. Everything that emerged from executive chef Michael C. Toni’s kitchen was skillfully prepared and beautifully presented, testament to a restaurant team that can work under pressure and still deliver elevated cuisine in a warm, friendly and classy environment.
14300 NE 145TH ST.
WOODINVILLE
www.therestaurantatdelille.com